安踏、李宁、特步等国货品牌纷纷推出冲锋衣新品,一时之间国内地铁站很久没穿上身的冲锋衣纷纷现身。
冲锋衣到底是什么?
“冲锋衣”这一说都出现在国内,国外几乎没有“冲锋衣”的说法,只是称“中国刚火起来的那个名字”。
真真正正的外国人不是这样称呼的,他们叫这件衣服“雨衣”或者叫它“硬壳”。
美国、日本及欧洲等发达国家地区,冲锋衣的实用性相对较高,许多人会准备一件在车里,秋冬季节也会穿着外出。
那么,是什么原因导致消费者们如此迫不及待地购买大量冲锋衣?
只有消费者自己能够找到这个答案。
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冲锋衣是街头最常见的一种服装,它的流行程度甚至可以与T恤相比较,几乎每个阶层的中国人都有一件冲锋衣。
而在国外,甚至几乎没有人穿冲锋衣这回事。
究竟是什么原因造成这种现象的?
首先,冲锋衣的诞生本质是为了帮助人们在户外活动中抵抗风雨。
上个世纪70年代末八九十年代初,中国野外露营开始兴起,冲锋衣的功能性恰好契合当时我国人的需求。
另外,不得不提到这些年国产品牌对冲锋衣进行了大量的营销推广,借此将冲锋衣打造成了“时尚单品”,这种定位与上世纪70年代末80年初完全不同。
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不同品牌的冲锋衣价格也各不相同。
国产品牌价格便宜的也就几百块左右价格,而国外大品牌根据功能性的不同和其本身知名度打造出来的品牌印记而卖出天价应该也不会让大家惊讶吧。
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国人有了国内不少功能性不错且价格不高的国产品牌之后,很少再去国外买昂贵又不一定合身的国外大品牌了。
其实早在十几年之前,如今被广大消费者排列上时尚第一名的安踏,就凭借着时尚运动的定位,几乎赚了国内每个消费者的钱。
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红色冲锋衣搭配白色“ANTA”字母,像极了刘翔当年穿的新百伦配白袜子那样吸引眼球,个人认为并非时尚专辑。
然而大多数消费者认为2016年安踏推出的这款红和白色的拉链上衣简直就是天仙下凡,让消费者掏钱买买买也是感情。
由此可见,消费者们并不一定非要冲锋衣本身实用,还需要一种瞩目的外观造型让他们拥有一种全世界都很喜欢这件事带来的满足感。
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既然冲锋衣如此普及,又基本上只有中国人有“冲锋衣”这一说,那么国内外使用习惯上的差异或许能够给我们解释清楚这个问题。
其实想要防风又想要防水什么的,只需要一件风 Jacket 或者 Rain Jacket 就够了,更加薄透气一些的是 wind shell,更加厚重一些的是 hard shell。
虽然它们听起来和我们的“冲锋衣”有些差距,但实际上它们与“冲锋衣”之间还是有一些共同之处,就是防风防雨。
国内大多数人认为硬壳才是不透风不透气的防风防雨外套,实际上 thin hard shell 一般被大多数国内消费者以为是 “硬壳”,但英文“hard shell”并不只是指这种,一般所有透风透气性较差具体能防风防雨保温过于厚重 types 都叫做 hard shell。
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这一类主要就是 thin hard shell 与 thick hard shell,但是 thin hard shell 就是普通防风防水薄透气性好的 rain jacket,也被称作 soft shell,有些 thin hard shell 可能会有轻微防水功能,但其透气性更重要,所以它们并不是 thick hard shell 的存在,实际上 thin hard shell 也无所谓 thick 和 thin 之分。
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So what is thick hard shell?
It refers to the dense fabric that cannot be penetrated by even a drop of water.
Generally speaking, real thick hard shells are not worn by humans, they are used in places with high water pressure.
For example, the raincoat worn by oil workers on offshore oil drilling platforms does not allow even a drop of water to penetrate.
So why don’t foreigners use it?
Because in their view, thin hard shells are enough.
Let’s talk about thick hard shells, which are mainly used in special situations and are not needed in everyday life.
So don’t think there’s anything wrong with foreigners not being able to carry big backpacks when they travel, it’s just that they like to be light and handy.
消费者为什么爱冲锋衣?如果你以为他们现在只穿薄雨衣你就太小看他们了。
In addition to wearing thin rain jackets or rain jackets for outdoor sports, ordinary people may also wear jackets for everyday use.
For example, let’s take a look at how people in Norway dress when they go for a walk at night.
Many people wear rain jackets or thin jackets, which is basically the standard attire for walking in Norway.
The reason is very simple: Norway has a high latitude and has fewer sunny days every year, so wearing a rain jacket makes more sense than wearing a jacket.
People take their dogs for walks every night without worrying about getting wet if it rains suddenly, nor do they have to worry about rain ruining their clothes.
Their outer layers should be chosen according to local climate conditions, which is reasonable enough.
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Let’s take a look at how they dress outdoors.
It’s basically the same as when walking the dog, that is, when it’s windy and rainy, put on a rain jacket when you’re not doing strenuous exercise.
When strenuous exercise is done outdoors, the quick-drying function of the clothes is directly related to their comfort during exercise.
Raincoats can also quickly dry off, while jackets with good breathability can increase comfort.
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Therefore, lack of breathable jackets in hot and humid environments will directly lead to discomfort affecting the performance of outdoor sports enthusiasts.
People wearing jackets outdoors can quickly respond when encountering sudden bad weather situations, without worrying about what kind of jacket they are wearing that day.
But don’t think Norwegian people can only wear light summer coats at work, they also wear tailored winter coats when working in winter, which is the standard matching method for all outdoor workers.
Only when it comes to work style and professional image will they pay attention to brands and styles that fit their image.
In today’s world full of environmental protection awareness, many consumers are starting to consider the environmental impact of their clothing choices.
While waterproof clothing is great for keeping dry in the rain, it often comes with an environmental cost due to the materials used to make them.
As awareness of sustainability grows, it’s possible that consumers may start to prioritize eco-friendly options over fashion or functionality alone.
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Is there a solution?
Yes, scientists are always finding new ways to make things more environmentally friendly and functional at the same time.
In the future, we may see rain jackets made from recycled materials or more sustainable manufacturing processes.